Day 1
flashback
From the instant he asked to borrow my pen to fill out his customs form on the way from Dallas to Cancun, I sensed a shared association. You see, Mormons have a keen sense of their own. Modar is like Gaydar in that the alerts are typically based on peculiar public behavior and curious wardrobe decisions. This guy and his female companion were obviously newlyweds as evidenced by their awkward display of public affection. It was sincere, and in a way kind of cute, but it was new, and oh so Mormon. As we disembarked, I walked up to them and asked if they were indeed newlyweds. After confirming this suspicion, I attempted to impress them with my Modar by asking, "Which Temple?" Without skipping a beat, or acknowledging the sophistication of my nuanced observation, he answered, "Salt Lake City." BYU-induced buzzkill. Everyone's Mormon. Duh.
It was a fun way to start the vacation--seeing an overly green, somewhat naive young couple celebrating the same milestone that Lori and I were commemorating 10 years later. And I'm glad that after 10 years, a look and a smile can say just as much, if not more, than sloppy in-flight French kissing.
enter Tulum
We knew we were in the right place, when, upon entering Tulum proper we stopped by a grocery store for some food, and found the place inhabited ENTIRELY by only two groups: Mexicans and Hippies. The locals lived there, and the hippies, well, they had also been there a while (beds at the Weary Traveler hostel in Tulum can go for as little as $.89 a day). The smell was a nice mix of chorizo and patchouli. I felt right at home. After purchasing plantains and Mexican oreos (thereby revealing our yuppie-bound hippiness), we made our way into the stretch of cabanas where, nicely settled in a patch of Mexican jungle, we found ours - the Robinson Crusoe.
Day 2
buddhists & nudists
Contrary to popular belief, Mormons, like everyone else under institutional constraints, like to break rules. There is a certain amount of satisfaction in being 'bad' but not 'bad enough.' This was not the impetus for our vacation to Tulum; we were there to reconnect and recharge. However, like the scene in Blue Lagoon where Brooke Shields and the dude recognize the implication of their togetherness, our vacation changed slightly when the Buddhist dropped his towel to reveal that the only thing between us and his Dalai Lama was the aforementioned dropped towel.
Nudity is a funny thing. To some it is art. To others, pornography. Regardless of where you stand on it, when you find yourself on a beach where the majority of its inhabitants are naked, the power of norms is a fairly persuasive agent. After the Buddhist, Porky, left with his puppy, a Yorky (not another penis euphemism, he really had a dog), two female nudists came along: one frolicking innocently in the waves, the other walking by nonchalantly. They were more like five year olds in the backyard than tri-Sigs on a Girls Gone Wild video. For whatever reason, maybe it was the private beach and paradisaical context, there was something that compelled Lori and I to want to join in. It just seemed right. And it was just 'bad enough' to be fun, and satisfyingly anonymous enough to be doable. Despite the allure, we refrained *. Me out of fear of an over-cooked bratwurst (back to the euphemisms), Lori due to Catholic girl inhibition. Maybe in the end being surrounded by nudists was bad enough.
* I skinny-dipped once. Weak sauce, I know.
Day 3
los conquistadores
What we did know about Tulum prior to heading here is its historical significance to the Mayan civilization. The ruins here are situated on a cliff overlooking the Carribean Sea. While the settlement was never a booming Mayan metropolis, it was a key port, critical to transportation and trade up and down the coast. A mere 8 km north of the Robinson Crusoe, we decided to discover the ruins on foot. We ran the first 5k on a local road, then ferreted through a fence to gain access to the last 3 km of rocky shoreline leading up to the ruins. We hiked along the rocks for a spell, jumping precariously from each bundle of jagged coral to the next. A fall would have resulted in a deep gash and a 20 ft fall into the ocean. I mentioned this fact to Lori after crossing a particularly slippery portion of the trail. Well, I had already crossed, Lori was still traversing the pass when I mentioned it. She, like the Mormon couple, was not impressed by my keen observation.
Before arriving at a pristine beach where we stopped for a quick dip (the nudists there numbered three: a toddler, the completely naked European, and the topless African), we passed by a cove where a couple - he snorkeling some distance out, she splashing in the shallow water with their son - was enjoying some weekend time at the beach. As soon as he spotted us he hopped out of the water and began yelling something at his wife. I couldn't understand what he was saying, but it felt like, "Be sure those filthy hippies don't snatch our son or the picnic." Lori, accustomed to putting people at ease with her smile and quick kindness, waved to reassure them of our wholesomeness. He waved back what appeared to be a greeting, but felt like, "Just keep on moving, human filth."
After the cove and the beach, we recommenced our journey and could see the top of the ruins in the distance. However, upon closer inspection we realized that our shoreline approach would be impeded by a bit of rock jutting out over the ocean, surpassable only with carabiners and rope...and of course the know-how to use the equipment. We had neither equipment nor know-how. I convinced Lori that we would need to climb up and into the jungle, going around the rock, then arriving at the ruins. She gave me the old, "what about snakes and spiders" look. Her aversion to jungle foe was overcome by her desire for companionship as I slipped into the brush without engaging her concern.
Several mosquito bits and a few leaf scratches later, we came to a pile of stones which were Mayan in appearance. You know the look. I lunged forward like Indiana Jones, only to find that we were being kept out by something a bit more modern than Mayan: barbed wire. While assessing the situation, a guy, no older than 20, appeared on the other side of the wire. In my best Sportuguese I explained that we wanted to "join him on his side." He laughed at my choice of words - me treating him more like a deceased ancestor than a random stranger - then asked how we had gotten ourselves into the jungle predicament. "We ascended from the beach." (You see, in Portuguese I am well-equipped enough to carry on a conversation on just about anything. With Spanish however, I retreat to the gospel talk which is the foundation of my foreign language acquisition. The words in Spanish and Portuguese are strikingly similar, and my confidence is buoyed by the topical familiarity.) He told us to climb carefully through the wire, walk 100 yards to the left, then enter the ruins. We did as we were told, and before I could hug him and rejoice in the "union of our souls," he was gone. Probably to join the other Nephite and Randall Starks (makes three) in doing good and secret deeds.
Our entry into the Mayan settlement went undetected. We slipped through a stone tunnel, cooled by the shade and breeze which constantly passes through. We were sunburned and covered in dirt. Even Lori looked a bit menacing. The inhabitants were well-dressed, mild-mannered, courteous, Native Mexicans. I began to feel guilty. The natives smiled at us and commented on the calor. Little did they know that we - the foreign devils - had gained access to their paradise fueled by a courageous sense of adventure and a religion-laced vernacular. History, rudely repeating itself. And we were playing the part of the offenders. Next time we should just use la entrada.
Day 4
butterflies and a rainbow
The only bugs here on the beach are butterflies. And let's face it, a butterfly is hardly a bug; it's more like a pleasant, beakless, non-chirping, agendaless bird. As I was wading in the ocean this morning, watching the butterflies dance on the sand, I noticed a woman setting up a massage table on the beach. I walked up to check out the rates and assess the legitimacy of the operation. It wasn't. And when I saw the hair in her armpits and the mangy dog that was her pet, I was sold. I toweled off and went over for my well-deserved rubdown (every time I get a massage I tell myself it's 'well-deserved' so I feel like less of a twit). I introduced myself and she responded in kind. "I am Arco Iris." Her name is Rainbow. Oh man, even better. It gets better.
After 20 minutes of the sandiest, most amazing massage I have ever had (honesty check: this is only the third massage I've ever had), I extended the session from 30 to 60 minutes. "Is that ok, Rainbow?" "Yes, it is better for me," she responds. Shoulder. Neck. Back. Head. Calves. Foot. "I sprained my ankle recently. It's a bit tender." " You just relax." "Ok, Rainbow." Arms. Hands. Cheeks (both sets). Lips. Nose. "You know you can fix your big crooked nose with an everyday massage." "Ok, Rainbow. Wait. What?" And then, the pot of gold - Rainbow massaged my ear. We're not talking just the casual flick of an ear lobe, but some real attention-giving squeezes. I swear I can hear better now.
Then, without warning, she stopped, pulled the sheet over my head, and left. What happened next I only know because Lori observed the whole thing from about 25 yards down the beach. I didn't know what Rainbow wanted me to do, so I remained obediently under the sheet. While thus waiting, Rainbow calmly walked away from the table and then started...wait for it...doing vigorous cartwheels and somersaults on the beach. As I lay confused, yet patient under a sheet, unknowingly I had sent the Rainbow into a circus-like fit of satisfaction and celebration. I have made people laugh. I have made them cry. I have made people happy, sad, angry, and annoyed. But I have never, ever made anyone do cartwheels. And here it wasn't just anyone - I made a Rainbow do cartwheels. It's like making Michael Jackson dance, or Pavarotti sing. It's what they do. It goes together. And I was the catalyst. Jesus saves! Rainbow cartwheels!
After a few minutes of breathing my own increasingly tepid recycled air, I emerged from my cotton-poly sepulchre to find Rainbow sitting in the sand petting her dog. I thanked her, gave her the fee plus tip, then went to my chair whereupon Lori told me about the cartwheels. "Of course she did," I pondered pretentiously. I laid back in the chair, smiling, thinking about the things I am, and what I had become today: Father. Son. Husband. Friend. Brother. Teacher. Student. Leader. Follower. Creator of Rainbows. I was disturbed from my self-indulgent exercise by the yipping of a dog and the laughter of a woman. I looked over to see Rainbow rubbing her mangy mutt mercilessly. He yelped in approval and she laughed accordingly. And then without warning, she stopped, turned towards the sea and ran, stopping only to do cartwheels and somersaults. Unfortunate. Made more unfortunate by the fact that this is probably not the last time I will pridefully take credit for someone's Tourette syndrome.
Day 5
time
Sleep. Rest. Read. Eat. Stretch. Swim. Read. Think. Write. Repeat.
Time stands still when there is no time. No increments to adhere to. No requisite rigor. On day 2 my iPod battery emptied, and we have not had a watch or clock since. * We attempt to keep pace by the reach of the tide or the position of the sun, but alas, our midwesterness gets in the way. We have learned to allow our bodies to guide us. We are moved to action only out of biological urge or necessity. Hungry. Eat. Tired. Sleep. Restless. Run. This is so foreign to both Lori and me. Our days are dictated by a clock; or rather, we manage our days through the management of the clock. Our chores are assigned a number, and that number is obeyed, like a ticket in a deli. Failure to abide by the order results in subsequent compromise - the next customer complains.
While this approach breeds efficiency, I fear the possible sacrificial consequence. I hope we are not so rigid that voices fall on deaf ears and feelings on a frigid soul. I hope that spontaneity is given space so that we might experience the joy of those who respond. That we become not creatures upon which time acts, but that we may act despite the constraints on our time.
* the absence of a clock became one of the most satisfying and enlightening aspects of our trip. I really feel it may have created something 'sticky' that brings about some small - yet significant and sustainable - change.
the great empanada chase
Tonight we got hungry. Instead of running to the restaurant for dinner, we decided to locate the girl who had sold us the most amazing empanadas last night. She was riding by on her bike, baskets full of warm breads, pastries, and empanadas. We bought a cheese and veggie empanada to be nice, but almost fell over after the first bite. It was perfect.
I went to the road where we had encountered her and waited. And waited. Less concerned with time, more with the challenge of finding our sun-soaked culinary Samaritan, I took to the beach to discover who she was and where she could be found. Rainbow was just finishing a massage, so I somersaulted over to her table. As soon as I uttered, "Girl. Bike. Empanada," she responded, "Her name is Zarah and she stays at Amoreira." We borrowed a couple of bikes, grabbed our map of the village and tore off to the south, in search of Zarah and her empanadas.
After finding Amoreira (a cluster of rustic cabanas and tree houses) completely devoid of human activity (There was a cat. Lori hates cats. Did you know that, Trina? Please don't like Lori less.) I ventured, once again, down to the beach where we found a group of hippies drinking vodka outside a Kelty tent. I called one of them over - Phillipe - and explained my need for the empanadas (again, using religous terms. But this time justified. These delights were indeed "the filled bread of God."). He laughed, agreed with my assessment, then pulled out his cell phone to dial Zarah. After a 45 second exchange he hung up , assured us she had some remaining goods then told us we could encounter her 2 km down the road on her bike. I wasn't even concerned when he referred to the empanadas as los hombres (the men), even though I should have probably asked for clarification. By that point our focus had become even more singular. We exchanged pleasantries and he invited us to stay at his hotel next time we were in town. It wasn't built yet, but it would be once he secured the right permits.
True to their word, after about 5 more minutes by bike, there was Zarah. We bought 5 empanadas, she thanked us for our efforts, and we assured her that we would have travelled five times as far. "Not since the mannah was deposited in the hands of the children of...oh, nevermind, these empanadas are amazing." On our way back to the Robinson Crusoe, riding beach cruisers on a crude road, under a canopy of tropical vegetation, I mentioned to Lori that if there was a soundtrack to this adventure, it would be Jack Johnson on every track.
We ate the empanadas on our porch, then headed to the shop for milkshakes. As we walked in, we were greeted by familiar lyrics spilling cooly from the speakers.
And there were so many fewer questions, when stars were still just the holes to heaven...
Day 6
look! another rainbow
Lori just wrapped up her time with Rainbow. While Lori did not incite cartwheels or somersaults (thank you. thank you.), she did get the following: "You are so beautiful. And my soul has revealed to me that we were sisters in a previous life. I start to cry when I first see you. It was very strong. We lived in Europe. And we were very poor. Do you feel it?" Lori of course nervously confirmed the stirrings with an uncomfortable giggle, and "Uh huh! Awesome." I wanted to know more, so I asked what country it was that they lived in. I received no specifics from Rainbow, only a vague, "Italy, maybe?"
And so we parted ways. Me, remembered as the crooked nosed canine. Lori as the beautiful Italian sister of a Rainbow. Of course.
Day 7
back home
I get a sinking, although not paralyzing, feeling every time I leave the house. I fear that I will miss something. I fear that time and distance will create some gap between my children and me. I can rationally convince myself of its foolishness, but I just as quickly validate my worry with the monotony and sway of daily experience. My fear is not that any one day I will miss out on that something; rather it is a fear that each day's distractions, pursuits, and vain ambitions are added to the previous day's, and that the sum will slowly carry me away. This lack of trust in myself is a bit embarrassing...yet, welcome. It is less a jerky nagging, but rather a taut and steady pull. Back to earth. Back to love. Back home.
Lori just wrapped up her time with Rainbow. While Lori did not incite cartwheels or somersaults (thank you. thank you.), she did get the following: "You are so beautiful. And my soul has revealed to me that we were sisters in a previous life. I start to cry when I first see you. It was very strong. We lived in Europe. And we were very poor. Do you feel it?" Lori of course nervously confirmed the stirrings with an uncomfortable giggle, and "Uh huh! Awesome." I wanted to know more, so I asked what country it was that they lived in. I received no specifics from Rainbow, only a vague, "Italy, maybe?"
And so we parted ways. Me, remembered as the crooked nosed canine. Lori as the beautiful Italian sister of a Rainbow. Of course.
Day 7
back home
I get a sinking, although not paralyzing, feeling every time I leave the house. I fear that I will miss something. I fear that time and distance will create some gap between my children and me. I can rationally convince myself of its foolishness, but I just as quickly validate my worry with the monotony and sway of daily experience. My fear is not that any one day I will miss out on that something; rather it is a fear that each day's distractions, pursuits, and vain ambitions are added to the previous day's, and that the sum will slowly carry me away. This lack of trust in myself is a bit embarrassing...yet, welcome. It is less a jerky nagging, but rather a taut and steady pull. Back to earth. Back to love. Back home.
